Spiritual Tourists in Northern New Mexico

Descending into the San Luis Valley from La Veta pass, then turning south at Ft. Garland, the New Mexico vibes start to sink in. The sun is setting as we pass through the town of San Luis and out onto the llano where signs warn of wild horses on the highway (we see several of the beautiful creatures right next to the road), the sky alight with fiery hues and the snowy peaks of the Sangre de Cristo range aglow in the final rays of daylight.

Just north of Questa we are trying to spot the stupa which we know exists among the juniper and pinion pine forest to the east but which we have never visited. Rather remarkably we do catch a glimpse of the white and gold spire in the dark, pull off the highway and follow a rutted dirt road until we reach the Buddhist shrine. It's a magnificent sight, locked at this hour but peering through the door's window we can see beautiful paintings on the walls and ceilings and vow to return sometime during daylight.

We arrive in Taos around dinnertime and are happy we have reservations at what has become our favorite restaurant there, Antonio's, housed in an old hacienda. We are now fully immersed in the spirit of New Mexico and feeling immense gratitude for all that it offers. After dinner we walk to the historic Taos Inn and sit in the lounge and listen to the ballads of a singer-songwriter from Oklahoma.

The next morning we visit the Neem Karoli Baba ashram and Hanuman Temple, a Taos landmark we have never before been to. We sit in the temple while Hunman Chalisa is recited, then tour the grounds, chat with some devotees and visit the gift shop.

A walk through the backstreets of Taos, with its old adobe houses and cottonwood trees, leads us to the historic plaza where shops display Indian jewelry, western wear and tourist trinkets.

New Mexico sits atop the Rio Grande rift which means there are lots of hot springs, some famous, some known to only a few. We decided to seek out one of the latter which we had only recently learned of. Ponce de Leon hot springs had once been a thriving resort but all that remains to the present day is a few cement pools in the forest. It is on private land but we read on the web that access had been permitted at various times in the past. The directions we found were rather vague but with GPS coordinates I was confident we could get there.

The drive from Taos didn't take long and after several miles on a dirt road we saw a gate and a sign giving temporary permission to enter (at your own risk). Nothing about a hot spring but we figured we had found the right place. A beautiful hike along the road and then a short climb through the forest led to the springs which had a small, unlined source pool and two lower cement pools. The larger of the two cement pools was our favorite place, because it was the warmest (we could feel seepage of hot spring water through the gravel-lined bottom) and because it was large enough to allow swimming laps.

We had planned to stay there for an hour or two. But it was one of the most enchanting spots among the many we have found in this our favorite part of the country, and we didn't leave until after the sun had set.

One other visitor came to the springs while we were there and he made the afternoon all the more enchanting. Herrero arrived dressed in a cowboy hat and boots with sarape over his shoulder. He greeted us warmly in Spanish and proceeded to undress and slip into the far end of the pool. I could see that he had huge shoulder muscles but the muscles in his left arm were deformed and his leg was badly scarred. We began to converse, Jitka and I pooling our limited Spanish vocabulary and learned that he came from Chihuahua state in Mexico, had 12 children, the youngest being 20, and he had been trampled by a horse when he was seven. He came to the springs to wash and be healed. We talked about our daughter and how I had family in Mexico. He asked if ours was the blue car parked by the gate and when we said yes he advised that there were "mal gente' (bad people) that broke into cars there and there was a better place he could show me. So when he was ready to leave I followed him on a narrow path through the woods, down narrow washes and up to the road where his dilapidated van was parked. He drove me back to our car, so I could move it, and there we said goodbye. I asked for his phone number but since he could neither read nor write he pulled a worn business card out of his wallet and said it was his "patron" (employer). So I wrote that down.

That evening we ate dinner and slept at the Rancho de Chimayo. In the morning we visited the two rustic chapels there and then headed towards Santa Fe, taking a back road (Bishop's Lodge) into town so we could stop at the Shinoni sculpture garden near Tesuque Pueblo. That evening we strolled the streets of Santa Fe, ate another great New Mexican dinner at the Guadalupe Cafe and then hung out on the plaza where they had just illuminated the Christmas lights for the season.

Heading back north the next day we journeyed into the country around Abiquiu and the Chama River. After reading about it in a local magazine we had decided to visit a Benedictine Monastery, "Christ in the Desert," situated in a beautiful valley at the end of a 13 mile dirt road. They accept visitors and even rent rooms for those seeking quiet and solitude for prayer and meditation. We very much enjoyed the majestic surroundings and the austere and peaceful feeling that pervaded there. Earlier Jitka and I both had wondered, after reading the magazine article, what it would be like to lead a life of contemplation and quiet work there (all are welcome - the author of the article was a Buddhist/pagan) but decided that Baba's ashram was more our style. But there's no question that New Mexico offers peace and inspiration where ever you go.

Morning Practice

Every morning that it is reasonably possible I commit the first portion of my day to yoga and meditation. I do this not because I made a vow to, or because I am seeking merit or some big spiritual payoff in the future. I do it because I know the payoffs, in terms of greater mental equipoise and a more vital energy through the day, are immediate. There is a deeper purpose, of course. It is the eternal longing to consciously reconnect with that which is greater than all things, that is within all things. Getting up early, for me, is not a chore, but neither is it routine. It is a conscious choice, gladly made, every day.

I've stopped expecting that my practice will eventually erase all my shortcomings. My desire is only to see things clearly and to always act in full awareness. I value my morning practice because I know how easy and common it is to fall into a limited and mundane state of mind during the day, acting without drawing on the infinite source of wisdom that lies within. So, yes there is a desire to evolve, to spend more time in an elevated state of consciousness. I sometimes wish I could go on retreat to focus intensively on dissolving ego barriers and hanging out in the bliss. But I know that the most rewarding and fruitful thing I can do is a consistent morning practice and I am infinitely grateful that I found the practice that works for me.

Meeting Jitka in Prague (20 years ago)

One day during our vacation in the Czech Republic Jitka and I were wandering around Prague. We stopped in at the Charles University Faculty of Arts, where Jitka had studied, toured the Old Town square, grabbed a bite at Country Life, walked across the Charles bridge, then ascended to the Prague Castle. On the way back into town we stopped to rest in a small garden at the foot of the castle. The place immediately evoked a strong memory - it was where Jitka and I had sat during a tour of Prague she had taken me on twenty years ago. I had been attending a meeting in Vienna and had rented a car in preparation for a drive to Germany that would follow. While visiting the site of some Roman ruins outside Vienna I had picked up two hitchhikers, Jitka and a friend, who were going to Bratislava. I drove them there and we wound up having dinner together and touring the city. Over dinner I remarked on how interesting the city was, This evoked from Jitka the comment that I should see Prague, which was much more beautiful and interesting. I replied that I would like to and she said that if I did decide to visit she'd be glad to show me around. I thought, well, why not? I have a car and I could come on the weekend between my meetings. So, I said I would try to come next Saturday. We made an arrangement to meet at a certain metro stop in the city at 10 am in the morning.

We did meet up and Jitka took me on a tour. This was not long after Czechoslovakia had gained its independence from the Soviet Union and there were still many vestiges of communist rule. After touring the city Jitka asked me to drop her at the train station because she was going home for the weekend. Since I was very much enjoying her company I offered to drive the 100 km to her town. We arrived in the evening and I needed to get gas for the car, a VW Golf that took only lead-free fuel. Unfortunately (or not), the only station in her town that sold lead-free fuel was closed and wouldn't open until the next morning. So I stayed, in a hotel, and that evening we walked through a hillside meadow above the town. And again, this summer, on hike into the Cesky Raj (Czech Paradise) we passed this place where we had walked 20 years earlier, leading me to reflect on the remarkable circumstances that had brought us together (we didn't see each other again for 5 years) and how amazing our time together has been.

Unexpected Group Dinner in Geneva

I went for a run through the parks and lakeside chateaus of Geneva after a day of meetings at the WMO. It was late when I got back to the hotel, so I headed out for a quick dinner by myself. I was exploring a side street about a km from the hotel when I found a small Indian restaurant that looked good. I stuck my head inside and soon realized there was a group party going on - all the tables were lined up and people were sitting talking, without any food in front of them. I turned to leave but someone came to the door and said "come, join us." I responded "no, I don't want to crash your party." The Swiss woman, speaking English, kept encouraging me. I still hesitated, figuring that everyone worked for some company and I'd feel awkward not having anything in common with them. When she said, no, it's not a company party I asked what everyone had in common. She said "we're all runners!"

Now I couldn't say "no," so I came in and was guided to a remaining seat. It was a great mix of people (expats mostly) doing all sorts of different work - humanitarian, IT, market research. And they didn't all know each other. They came together through a Facebook group. So, not only did I avoid eating alone, I had some great interactions with the locals.

My Review of Vibram FiveFingers Sprint Multisport Shoes - Men's

Originally submitted at REI

Set your feet free with the Vibram FiveFingers Sprint multisport shoes, which provide the benefits and comfort of barefoot adventuring with the added protection of rubber soles and supportive straps.

Vibram FiveFingers Sprint Multisport Shoes - Men's

changed my (running) life

By SiriJodha from Boulder (where else?), Colorado on 2/28/2011

 

5out of 5

Sizing: Feels true to size

Width: Feels true to width

Arch Type: Average Arch

Pros: Fast, Durable, Good Traction, Lightweight, Comfortable, Breathable

Best Uses: Road Running

Describe Yourself: Avid Athlete

Was this a gift?: No

These shoes transformed the way I run and the way I experience running. Before buying the shoes I had started shortening my strides and would occasionally go to the track to run laps barefoot. So no major adjustment was needed when I started running in these shoes. Before, I almost always ran mountain trails near my home. With the FFs I discovered that I had to concentrate too much on foot placement to avoid sharp rocks or stubbing my toes (very painful!). So I started running on roads and found that I was putting in more miles and not even looking at my watch because I was enjoying it so much. These shoes really transformed my running life. When you re-learn to run, running on asphalt and concrete for hours is no problem.

(legalese)