Gettin' out of Ankara

I knew there was a whole country out there, but should I risk missing my flight to experience it? Anakra is not a particularly attractive or interesting city, although it did ease my way into Turkish culture and taught me a few words of the language. My meetings in Ankara ended at noon and Friday, and my flight wasn't until 6 am the next morning, so i rented a car and headed west, towards Istanbul. Getting out of Ankara was harrowing. Everyone drives fast and reckless, I couldn't understand the signs and my Google maps directions were almost too complicated to follow. I missed a turn off the main thoroughfare (it was a center lane exit) so had to loop back through narrow, crowded streets. It didn't help that my map had the highways numbered but these were not used on the highway signage. They used placenames, cities that I didn't know. Eventually, I manage to get on the correct road heading out of town, navigate a few more interchanges and finally get to where I could relax and enjoy the drive, knowing I was on the right road.

The countryside of the Anatolia plain is dry and mountainous. I was following a valley, where a river fed many small plots of fruits and vegetables on the bottom land. Roadside stands selling produce were quite common.

I would have missed the turnoff to the spa if I hadn't coded the waypoint into my GPS. The single-lane road climbed through hilly grasslands and then down into a small valley where the resort was. I was led into to the lobby and introduced to an English-speaking woman. She said rooms were 65 TKL (about $42). I said I was staying a short while and only needed a bed. So, I got a room with three single beds, a table, a locker, 3 chairs and bare bulb hanging from the ceiling. Perfect. It was $5. Oh, and a prayer run and beads were included.

I headed straight to the indoor hot pools. They were a steaming 46deg C (117F). Wow. The waters were available to drink as well and I availed myself of about a quarter liter. While I was hanging out in changing room after soaking a man respectfully asked me where I was from, because his grandson wanted to know. We talked and others in the room moved closer, because they were curious too. They asked - how did you know about this place? Only one man spoke English. He was a retired electrical engineer. After we'd talked for a while I asked if I could take a picture. When I went to leave I asked the Engish-speaking man where I could get a towel. It then dawned on me that it was a "bring your own towel" affair and they hadn't supplied one with the room (what do you expect for $5?). The man very kindly offered his towel, if I took a shower first (appropriate, since I was still sweating from the soak).

I then drove to the nearby city Beypazari. I had no idea where the downtown was, but when I got to a place where there was nowhere to park I figured this must be it. I found a spot a little ways away, parked and walked into the shopping district. Exactly what I wanted. There was one thoroughfare with hardware, clothing, grocery etc. and then an open marketplace with produce stalls, and, well, every kind of merchandise you can imagine in a maze of narrow streets. I ate it up. I had read in the guide that the town was famous two things - silver jewelry and carrots. In fact, there was a statue of a carrot in the one roundabout near the market. The jewelry was indeed remarkable, and one shopkeeper literally pulled me into her shop to look at what she had. I came out with a pendant of intricate silver meshwork with a garnet set in the center. Price: $10.

When I got back to the spa with bread (two sizable loves for $0.75), cheese, peaches, a melon, and, yes, some carrots, I ran into the English-speaking man again, and he invited me to share dinner with him and his family. I knew that would be a long affair, and I would have to decline the meat, so I apologized and said no.

The adventure continued on the drive back to the airport early next morning. I had set my alarm for 3 am but when I awoke at 1 am to pee (I had misgauged in rehydrating after the baths) I decided to pack and leave, allowing extra time in case unforeseen events extended the time it took to get to the airport. Although I had pre-paid the $5 for the room, the guard at the gate would not allow me to exit until i formally checked out at the front desk. So, we walked back to the hotel where the receptionist didn't speak a word of English, and had trouble working the computer to check me out. I eventually left, still relaxed because of the extra 2 hrs I had.

I was using the GPS and maps in my phone as I got near Ankara (I had to be sure it wasn't connecting to the network, because I had unknowingly run up hundreds of dollars in data charges after using it in S. Africa and Greece a few months ago.) Well, at 3pm, just as I was approaching a critical interchange, the alarm on the phone dutifully went off, and the screen froze as I fumbled to turn it off. Completely locked up. Map didn't change. So I'm fumbling to cycle power and I won't. So, still driving on the expressway, getting closer to a point where I will most need guidance, I'm taking the back off the phone, to remove the battery. I finally get the phone restarted, but it's too late. I had to make a decision and it was the wrong one. So here I am wandering the outskirts of Ankara trying to get back on the expressway. Still, no worries, flight isn't for another 3 hrs.

I'm finally on the road approaching the airport. I'm looking for a 24-hr gas station. I spot one with its lights on and pull in. No one in sight. I'm about to drive off when the attendant walks over from a nearby parking lot. I ask for diesel. He cheerfully fills the tank but when he goes to remove the nozzle, it's stuck. He tugs and twists, gives me a "what's up with this?" expression, then goes back to struggling. I watch for a while, then open the trunk and get out a flashlight so he can see better. Still no luck. He goes into the station and gets a screwdriver. He's fiddling, i'm holding the flashlight. More time goes by. Now I'm beginning to wonder how this will get resolved. But eventually he pokes the right and the nozzle comes free.

I got to the airport, through checkin and up to the business lounge in enough time to take a shower (I still smelled slightly to the mineral water, since the showers in the bathhouse used it). Refreshed, relaxed and ready to go home, I grin with the satisfaction of knowing that my gamble paid off.

Photos here